Category

Stories and Rants

  • Waiter, There’s a Bug in My Arugula

    The other night, I made this mac and cheese out of Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating:It’s a fine mac and cheese, if not the best I’ve ever had. I used aged American Cheddar, as the book’s author recommends, but the application of onions, garlic and wine didn’t really have a big payoff. The first bite…

  • Alice Waters on The View

    Sharing your guilty pleasure is like describing what you just did in the bathroom: most people don’t want to hear it. But today my guilty pleasure intersects with my career and so I have no choice but to share, yet again, the sad but very true fact that every day, late in the afternoon, I…

  • The Secret To A Successful Dinner Party Is A Big Pot of Food and Dessert

    The Secret To A Successful Dinner Party Is A Big Pot of Food and Dessert

    Friends, I’ve made a discovery. If you want a fun evening of food, camaraderie, and drinking, you needn’t fuss over a really lavish dinner. You need only do two things: (1) make a nifty, crowd-pleasing dessert; and (2) prepare a big, simmering pot of something delicious.

  • Let’s Make Our Cookies Bigger

    Let’s Make Our Cookies Bigger

    People of the world, aren’t you tired of tiny cookies? You know the kind I’m talking about. They’re the kind that you end up making when a recipe says, “Drop cookie batter by rounded tablespoon onto ungreased baking sheets.” That’s what the recipe says for Nestle’s Oatmeal Butterscotch Cookies, which I made again tonight (here’s…

  • Dornenburg & Page, Part Two: In Which I Learn About Wine and Eat Terrific Food at Bar Carrera

    Dornenburg & Page, Part Two: In Which I Learn About Wine and Eat Terrific Food at Bar Carrera

    After my embarrassment at having stood Andrew and Karen up on Sunday (and if you click here you can see they actually wrote a play about it! Funny!) I was sure to be early on Monday for our rescheduled rendezvous. The place, this time, was Bar Carrera in the East Village: I pressed Karen to…

  • The Last Supper & The Big Move

    The Last Supper & The Big Move

    This is the last thing I cooked in my Chelsea apartment: The dish was Braised Chicken Thighs with Saffron, Olives and Mint from “Molto Italiano.” I made it a few days ago before I started packing up my kitchen. It’s a pretty terrific dish. It begins when you season chicken thighs, dredge them in flour…

  • Sorry From Sirio

    My mom got home today (to our house in Boca Raton, FL) and found a FedEx package at the door. She took it inside and opened it and inside was a copy of Sirio Maccioni’s autobiography and this letter (click the picture for a bigger version):I suppose Sirio (or his team) tracked down my family…

  • The Real Mauro?

    People are asking if the real Mauro Maccioni (son of Sirio) is leaving comments on my Le Cirque post. Friends around me right now say, without question, that it is “definitely him.” (Their reason is: “Why would someone pretend to be the son of Sirio? If they were going to pretend they’d pretend to be…

  • Only A Jerk Would Eat At Le Cirque

    Only A Jerk Would Eat At Le Cirque

    Dear Readers, I am writing you, on behalf of the human race, to inform you that a famous restaurant, a restaurant whose name still carries great cache, is a danger to humanity. Never have I been more outraged by a restaurant than I was on Friday night when my parents, who came to town, took…

  • To Cut An Artichoke

    To Cut An Artichoke

    For months now I have watched Mario Batali cut artichokes on “Molto Mario,” demanding the participation of this three guests and charging that “it’s really easy and really worthwhile.” What’s infuriating (but admirable) is that he takes the time, each time, to explain the process to his audience. The religious viewer is left irritated at…