Would you believe me if I told you that one of my favorite restaurants in New York is a pizzeria?
In the city that brought us Franny’s (RIP) and Roberta’s (still going), it shouldn’t be such a revelation. But for outsiders visiting the Big Apple, it may be hard to comprehend that a place that slings pizza pies can also serve seasonal, complex, and sophisticated food. Well, visiting outsiders, believe me when I say that F&F Restaurant and Bar in Carroll Gardens is currently the best of the bunch.
Their cocktails and non-alcoholic cocktails are all outstanding. In particular, I’m obsessed with this NAmericano (get it? N.A. Americano) that has Pathfinder amaro and all kinds of bitter ingredients that make it taste like the real deal, without the hangover.
All of the appetizers are worth getting. For a while, we were obsessed with their fava bean salad, no longer on the menu (because it’s no longer spring):
It’s a twist on the traditional fava and Pecorino salad, with celery, onions, and an assortment of other non-fava beans.
On our most recent visit, we shared the puntarelle salad: a rare-for-the-U.S. Italian bitter green that’s often served with anchovies; here it was served with bottarga toast.
We also ordered these Scarlett runner beans — they’re big on beans at Frank’s — served in a sumptuous broth with lots of hearty cooked greens.
You can see how this pizzeria isn’t really a pizzeria at all: if you want that, there’s a specific F&F Pizzeria right next door, where they sell pizza by the slice and pie (to stay or to go). Here at F&F Restaurant and Bar, we’re more in Alice Waters world with heirloom beans and challenging greens.
But then there is actually pizza. And really, really good pizza. Is it the same pizza that they serve next door? No. I mean: it’s probably the same dough, but they use a different oven and these pizzas are more boutique.
One time we had an incredible pizza with braised lamb (!) and mint pesto (!) on top:
I mean: have you ever seen a pizza more beautiful? There was so much surprise in every bite: the rich, gaminess of the lamb; the bright, herbaceousness of the pesto.
This time we got the more straightforward mushroom pizza, which isn’t really straightforward with its panoply of exotic mushrooms on top:
On a still-warm-enough fall day, is there anything more lovely than sitting outside at F&F, eating a pizza, and watching the people stroll by? Who needs to ride the F train into Manhattan for dinner when you can ride the F&F pizza train to paradise right here in Brooklyn.
The dessert section might be the least developed section of the menu. This ricotta tart was nice:
But Frank-ly, the ricotta was a little gritty and overcooked. The ideal night might end a few blocks away at Malai for some North Indian ice cream. You’ll want a stroll anyway, to walk off that pizza.
F & F Restaurant and Bar / 465 Court Street, Brooklyn, New York
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