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Which is better: summer cooking or winter cooking? I vote winter cooking, with an emphasis on “cooking.” In the summer, you don’t need to do much: slice a peach, add some arugula, a splash of olive oil, a sprinkling of vinegar and you’ve got a salad. In the winter, that won’t cut it. You’ve really…

Gather ye round, friends, and hear the tale of a ragu that cooked for five hours, perking away on the stove as the many pieces of meat that went into it–lamb shoulder, pork ribs, short ribs–slowly broke down and contributed their fat and flavor to the tomatoes and onions and garlic that made up the…

The meat section at my local Gelson’s is pretty spectacular: if you name a cut of meat, they probably have it. And on Friday night I was craving lamb and, studying the lamb options there, I saw a giant leg of lamb for $70 and a rack of lamb for $40. Those prices would seem…