Category

essays

  • One Year in L.A. (A Reflection)

    One Year in L.A. (A Reflection)

    I came to L.A. with the most open of open minds. As New Yorkers twisted up their faces at the news (“L.A.? You’re moving to L.A.?”) I held my head high with secret knowledge. My secret knowledge was mostly food-based. I knew about Jonathan Gold, one of our nation’s greatest food writers, who, in writing…

  • Dinner at Rick and Chuck’s (A Memory)

    Dinner at Rick and Chuck’s (A Memory)

    The letter was in an envelope in my pocket, folded in half. Even though I knew this would produce a crease, I figured a crease was better than walking into my professor’s house holding a mysterious envelope, especially with three other classmates arriving with me. “What’s that letter?” they would probably ask and what would…

  • The Recipes We Leave Behind

    The Recipes We Leave Behind

    Marion Cunningham’s death is a sad occasion, one that’s fostered many loving tributes from distinguished food writers like Kim Severson and Michael Bauer. Many of these tributes make mention of her recipes, in particular her raised waffles (which I’ve made before, see picture above) and her baking powder biscuits (which I haven’t but plan to…

  • Ten Food Books That Changed My Life

    Ten Food Books That Changed My Life

    The first food book that I ever read (and the first food book that changed my life) was Calvin Trillin’s Feeding A Yen. I don’t recall what led me to it, but I remember the first chapter incredibly well: Trillin’s daughter no longer lives in New York and he thinks he can woo her back…

  • Stop It With The Small Plates! (Except Where They Work)

    Stop It With The Small Plates! (Except Where They Work)

    Dear Restaurant Owners, The jig is up! Do you think I’m a chump? Do you think I don’t see through you and your small plate menus? You’re trying to get me to spend more money than I want to! Instead of offering up an individual-sized appetizer for $12 to $15 and an entree in the…

  • Waiting For The Dough To Rise (A Passover Meditation)

    Waiting For The Dough To Rise (A Passover Meditation)

    On Passover Saturday, I Tweeted that I was making Everything Bagel Bombs from the Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook and moments later I received this text from my mom: “Do you not know bagels are taboo on Passover or are you just stirring the pot? Most bagel stores in New York are closed.” I called my…

  • Let’s Bring Back The “Thank You” Note

    Let’s Bring Back The “Thank You” Note

    The worst moment of my 13 year-old life was when my mom pointed to a stack of cardboard cards featuring my name written in glitter and told me that I had to write “thank you” notes for all of my Bar Mitzvah gifts. This was weeks after having been hospitalized for dehydration (my Bar Mitzvah…

  • Are Food Blogs Over?

    Are Food Blogs Over?

    [Image from Roboppy’s Flickr via Slashfood.] In this week’s New York Magazine, there’s a story about a 27-year old who spends most of her life and her money eating out at trendy, of-the-moment restaurants. To be honest, I didn’t read the article—that’s the side of the food world I have zero interest in (fad-following)—but one…

  • Knowing What To Eat

    Knowing What To Eat

    It’s funny: the smarter I get about the food, the harder it is to figure out what to eat. Eating didn’t used to be this hard. If I wanted a chicken club sandwich for lunch, I’d eat a chicken club sandwich for lunch. I didn’t worry about whether the bacon came from an industrial pig,…

  • How Do You Not Weigh 500 Pounds?

    How Do You Not Weigh 500 Pounds?

    If there’s one question I get asked all the time, whether in my blog comments or over Twitter, it’s: “How do you not weigh 500 pounds?” It’s usually in response to a post about a very decadent meal or a recipe that involves several sticks of butter (like Craig’s birthday cake). The question implies that…