• The Best Apple Pie I’ve Ever Made

    The Best Apple Pie I’ve Ever Made

    Memorize this fact about apple pie making, and you’ll be set for life: it’s not about the recipe, it’s about your state of mind. That nugget comes from Craig’s dad, the master of apple pie (see here), who’s said to me, in the past: “I think you’re overthinking it.” And in the past I had…

  • Restaurants That Do The Right Thing

    Restaurants That Do The Right Thing

    That sandwich you see towering above you is called the Stella Hero from Stella Barra Pizza, where Craig and I went for lunch before seeing Gone Girl this past Sunday. The question isn’t “what’s in that thing?”, the question is: “What isn’t in that thing?” It’s got smoked ham, turkey, capicola (cured pork shoulder), tomato,…

  • Richard Kramer’s These Things Happen

    Richard Kramer’s These Things Happen

    The older I get, the more my taste has shifted from the realm of CLEVER to the realm of HEART. In my 20s, I devoured books like Pale Fire and A Confederacy of Dunces; in my 30s, I get more excited when a book moves me to tears than when it makes me chuckle knowingly.…

  • My New Favorite Fall Salad

    My New Favorite Fall Salad

    Sometimes there’s a salad that you like, but don’t love, and then you change a few things about it and suddenly it’s your new favorite salad. That’s what happened with this salad, a familiar combination of apples and fennel and walnuts and golden raisins and arugula. It’s one you can probably find in my archives…

  • Corn Soup As Pure As Gold

    Corn Soup As Pure As Gold

    There’s a corn soup that you need to know about before the corn goes away and, sadly, the corn’s going away pretty soon. Grab some, OK? The sweet stuff. You’re about to make a corn soup that’s so good even people who hate corn soup–CRAIG’S PARENTS–will declare it wonderful. (I didn’t know Craig’s parents hated…

  • Tasty Sheet Pan Pizza That May Actually Be Focaccia

    Tasty Sheet Pan Pizza That May Actually Be Focaccia

    Some food people are real sticklers for words and what they mean. For example: pizza. I consider the pizza at Pizzeria Mozza (developed by Nancy Silverton) to be some of the best pizza I’ve ever had, but there are detractors out there who call it focaccia because it’s so puffy. I’m pretty sure it’s pizza…

  • The World’s Easiest Chocolate Tart

    The World’s Easiest Chocolate Tart

    When we were in Berlin this past July, at a restaurant called Renger-Patzsch, our dinner ended with the perfect punctuation mark of a dessert: a chocolate tart with apricots and vanilla ice cream. It was memorable for its combination of elegance and simplicity; a tart isn’t easy to do, but this one, somehow, seemed effortless.…

  • Pork Shoulder with Guinness, Dried Cherries, and Sweet Potatoes

    Pork Shoulder with Guinness, Dried Cherries, and Sweet Potatoes

    What’s the difference between a home cook and a chef? For me, the answer lies right there in the pages of Daniel Boulud’s braising book which came out back in 2006. I’m a big believer in braising; nothing makes me happier than to sear a tough piece of meat, stir in some aromatics, add a…

  • Just So You Know, Food Arrives When It’s Ready

    Just So You Know, Food Arrives When It’s Ready

    There’s a new restaurant trend afoot, one that takes the form of a casual, shoulder-shrug of a sentence, usually uttered by a server after he or she takes your order. It’s the sentence in the title of this post: “Just so you know, food arrives when it’s ready.” It’s a sentence I heard last night…

  • Skillet Cornbread

    Skillet Cornbread

    Sometimes I wake up with a specific craving that has no obvious root. For example, on Saturday morning I woke up with a craving for cornbread. Where did that come from? Was it the fact that I’d been watching the Sean Brock episodes of “Mind of a Chef” at the gym? Actually, that was probably…