• Blueberry Disaster

    Blueberry Disaster

    I fully support, endorse and celebrate the spirit with which Nancy Silverton wrote her newest book, A Twist of the Wrist. For a chef as particular as Silverton (and believe me, having made her sourdough bread from scratch, that woman loves detail) it’s refreshing to see her let down her hair, so to speak, with…

  • On Phoebe Damrosch’s “Service Included: Four-Star Secrets of an Eavesdropping Waiter”

    It takes a great deal to make me burst out laughing in the middle of a coffee shop. First of all, I suffer from some social anxiety: I don’t like to make a spectacle of myself (unless I’m making horror movies on the internet) and I often give dirty looks to those who carry on…

  • Polenta Power

    Polenta Power

    In the Chelsea Market, on 9th Ave., there’s an Italian goods store that features rows upon rows of imported treasures from Italy. There you’ll find salt-packed anchovies, genuine San Marzano tomatoes, even white truffles for several hundred dollars a pop. Every time I go in there, I marvel at the goods and then I leave…

  • The Book Supplement

    The Book Supplement

    I made an absolute effort, when writing my book, not to rehash any old material from the blog. I wanted each chapter to feature an entirely new story, a new experience that would excite loyal readers who’ve been reading me from the beginning as well as new readers who’d discover me in the book store.…

  • The Winning Casserole: Cheese Love

    The Winning Casserole: Cheese Love

    As I hoped, your prodding inspired the Casserole Contest winners, Zack and Graham (pictured above with Emily) to share their recipe. Zack implores: “I can’t over-emphasize the importance of the Bobolink cheddar in this recipe. It is generally only available directly from the farmer/cheesemaker and I know that it is expensive when compared to industrial…

  • My Critical Condition

      In the introduction to John Lahr’s 1996 book “Light Fantastic: Adventures in Theatre” he writes, “Criticism, of course, is a kind of performance, but with this difference: the artist puts his life on the line, the critic only his words. This is not to minimize the significance of the activity, but to place criticism…

  • How To Judge A Casserole Contest

    How To Judge A Casserole Contest

    When I gave up a career in the law for a career as a food writer, who knew I’d wind up a juadge? Well that’s exactly what happened last week when I went to Brooklyn Label to co-judge The Third Annual Casserole Party, the brainchild of casserole enthusiast Emily Farris. I was a second choice…

  • Bones

    Bones

    They say charity begins at home. They also say that “no good deed goes unpunished.” But I have a new aphorism that I hope some day catches on: “Donating your clothes to the Salvation Army leads to goat curry.” After a week of cleaning out the closet, making room for Craig, we had four giant…

  • AGTV: All About Cheese

    This third installment of AGTV is a day late: I wanted to have it up last night, but there was so much footage (about an hour of cheesetalk) that it took me an extra day to whittle it down to what you see here. A huge thanks to Nathan, all the people at Murray’s cheese,…

  • My Burnt Foot

    My Burnt Foot

    Picture it: my kitchen, last Thursday. I’m standing at the stove attempting to make Colman Andrews’ recipe for Rigatoni with Chickpeas and Anchovies from Nancy Silverton’s “A Twist of the Wrist” and I have a giant vat of water boiling for the pasta. The sauce is simple: you just take 12 anchovies, mash them up…

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