• Tuesday Techniques: French Apple Tart

    Tuesday Techniques: French Apple Tart

    I would like to begin this week’s “Tuesday Techniques” column–a column which appears regularly on Wednesdays–with a discussion of the word “technique.” I think people are intimidated by the word. It implies a “right-wrong” dynamic, something hammered home by Tom Colicchio on “Top Chef” when he criticizes improper technique. “You don’t know how to cut…

  • Omakase

    Omakase

    Those of you who know what omakase is, you may want to skip this post. This is for those of you who see the post title above and you’re scratching your head and wondering: “Huh?” This post is for you.

  • Chocolate Covered Matzos

    Chocolate Covered Matzos

    Passover is over, but I’d like to belatedly submit my review of the Dark Chocolate Egg Matzos I bought at Citarella a few weeks ago. Here’s my review: I didn’t really like it. Sometimes the combination of dry, crackly, salty bread-like substance (pretzels, for example) with creamy, bitter, unctuous chocolate is a winner, but not…

  • Tuesday Techniques: Home Fries

    Tuesday Techniques: Home Fries

    Last week I started a series called Tuesday Techniques, a series where I cook my way through Jacques Pepin’s Complete Techniques the same way that Top Chef Judge Tom Colicchio did at the start of his career. Already, I’m on shaky ground: (1) my Tuesday techniques posts always show up on Wednesday, but Wednesday Techniques…

  • Seared Scallops with Citrus Risotto

    Seared Scallops with Citrus Risotto

    Visions of food sometimes arrive and you wave them away like an annoying fly. “Why am I craving lobster bisque right now?” you ask yourself while castrating a horse. “Get that craving out of my head!” But what you don’t realize, person who is reading this, is that a craving is a gift, assistance from…

  • Siggi’s Skyr

    Siggi’s Skyr

    Let’s end the week with yogurt. Not just any yogurt, though; let’s talk about Icelandic yogurt, otherwise known as skyr. Now I’d never heard of skyr until I heard about Siggi. Who’s Siggi? He’s a friend of my friend Sasie, one of Craig’s film school classmates. When I first met Sasie and told her that…

  • Tuesday Techniques: Cooking with Demi-Glace (Hunter Chicken)

    Tuesday Techniques: Cooking with Demi-Glace (Hunter Chicken)

    Tom Colicchio, that most formidable of judges on “Top Chef,” shocked me the other night when, during an interview on PBS’s series Chef’s Story (with Dorothy Hamilton) he revealed that he hadn’t gone to cooking school, he taught himself everything he knows using Jacques Pepin’s “La Technique” and “La Méthode.” (This is corroborated on his…

  • wd-50

    wd-50

    So much has been written and blogged about wd-50, Wylie Dufresne’s humorously named restaurant on the Lower East Side, that many of you may feel like you’ve already been there without having been there. That’s certainly how I felt when we sat down for dinner last Tuesday, an anniversary dinner marking two years with Craig.…

  • A Matzoh Moment

    A Matzoh Moment

    Certain experiences belong in that well-worn jar on the mantle: “Only In New York.” Take the experience I had the other night before joining Craig for our second anniversary dinner at wd-50 (post to follow). I was in the Lower East Side, walking on Clinton Street (or was it Rivington?) and I noticed a humming…

  • Molly Stevens’ Braised Monkfish with Cherry Tomatoes & Basil

    Molly Stevens’ Braised Monkfish with Cherry Tomatoes & Basil

    “Now is the winter of our Molly Stevens,” I wanted to say at the start of this winter. I wanted to say that because Molly Stevens’ book, All About Braising, is one of my all-time favorite cookbooks. I love this book because the recipes are flawless and, not only that, the results always exceed my…