• Lunch With Steven Shaw at Ippudo & Momofuku Milk Bar

    Lunch With Steven Shaw at Ippudo & Momofuku Milk Bar

    On October 3rd, 2003, I shared my very first piece of food writing ever on a forum called eGullet. The post was called Charlie Trotter Superdud and it set off a storm of comments from hundreds of subscribers, some of whom were well known entities in the food world (Anthony Bourdain among them.) After that…

  • Improvised Stuffing

    Improvised Stuffing

    The plan was to roast a chicken the way I normally roast chicken (which is to say, the best way in the world!) on a cold winter’s night in November. And then, flipping through the channels, I stopped on the Food Network (surprise, surprise) and there was Rachael Ray making a stuffing. Normally, I wouldn’t…

  • A Thanksgiving Confession (with Two Recipe Suggestions)

    A Thanksgiving Confession (with Two Recipe Suggestions)

    One week from today is Thanksgiving, and it’s time to tell you the truth: I’m not cooking dinner this year! No, after cooking last year (see here) and the year before (see here) I’m giving myself a break this year, and enjoying time with my family instead. So there will be no frantic posting, no…

  • Perbacco, Scarpetta, & Dirt Candy

    Somehow, in the past two weeks, I’ve eaten at three new and relevant New York restaurants. Instead of typing up three separate restaurant posts, I decided to make a video summarizing all three meals. The only thing I think I got wrong is the price of the spaghetti and tomato sauce at Scarpetta; it’s $24,…

  • Cream Scones, 1 2 3

    Cream Scones, 1 2 3

    We are about to conduct an experiment. For this experiment you will need a person; the person should be a person who: (1) loves scones; (2) is a self-professed non-cook. The purpose of this experiment is to prove that a self-professed non-cook who loves scones can whip up a batch of cream scones so quickly,…

  • Gourmet’s Pre-Opening Preview of Susur Lee’s Shang

    Gourmet’s Pre-Opening Preview of Susur Lee’s Shang

    If Gourmet Magazine ever invites you to a party–and I’m still not convinced Gourmet Magazine’s ever invited ME to a party, they must think I’m someone else–three words of advice: go go go! First comes the fancy cardboard invitation in an envelope with erotic Chinese drawings; then there’s the event itself at the new Lower…

  • Madhouse in a Boathouse

    Madhouse in a Boathouse

    It’s a nice thought: eating Sunday brunch in Central Park’s boathouse, overlooking a peaceful lake, watching the yellow and red leaves fall from the soon-to-be-naked branches. Certainly, it’s not an original idea; certainly, lots of tourists will be there. But can’t it still be enjoyable? How crazy can it get?

  • Baked Red Kidney Beans with Chorizo

    Baked Red Kidney Beans with Chorizo

    Is cheating on a recipe like cheating on a test? I wondered that as I made the “Red Kidney Beans Baked with Chorizo, Chilli, Garlic, and Olive Oil” from Simon Hopkinson’s sequel to “Roast Chicken & Other Stories,” “Second Helpings of Roast Chicken.” Simon, or Mr. Hopkinson (that feels more appropriate), calls for dried kidney…

  • Almond Cake in a Food Processor

    Almond Cake in a Food Processor

    You know the author photos you see on the back flap of cookbooks? Imagine if one of them started talking to you. That’s how I felt last week when I announced on Twitter that I was making Amanda Hesser’s almond cake (one of my all-time favorite desserts, recipe here) and Amanda Hesser herself, who’s a…

  • Esca

    Esca

    It’s hard to write about Esca because Esca doesn’t seem real. The first time I ate there, it was for Chapter 8 of my book, the chapter where I met Ruth Reichl for lunch. I was so nervous that day, so focused on the person I was about to meet, that the restaurant didn’t feel…