• A Thanksgiving Confession (with Two Recipe Suggestions)

    A Thanksgiving Confession (with Two Recipe Suggestions)

    One week from today is Thanksgiving, and it’s time to tell you the truth: I’m not cooking dinner this year! No, after cooking last year (see here) and the year before (see here) I’m giving myself a break this year, and enjoying time with my family instead. So there will be no frantic posting, no…

  • Perbacco, Scarpetta, & Dirt Candy

    Somehow, in the past two weeks, I’ve eaten at three new and relevant New York restaurants. Instead of typing up three separate restaurant posts, I decided to make a video summarizing all three meals. The only thing I think I got wrong is the price of the spaghetti and tomato sauce at Scarpetta; it’s $24,…

  • Cream Scones, 1 2 3

    Cream Scones, 1 2 3

    We are about to conduct an experiment. For this experiment you will need a person; the person should be a person who: (1) loves scones; (2) is a self-professed non-cook. The purpose of this experiment is to prove that a self-professed non-cook who loves scones can whip up a batch of cream scones so quickly,…

  • Gourmet’s Pre-Opening Preview of Susur Lee’s Shang

    Gourmet’s Pre-Opening Preview of Susur Lee’s Shang

    If Gourmet Magazine ever invites you to a party–and I’m still not convinced Gourmet Magazine’s ever invited ME to a party, they must think I’m someone else–three words of advice: go go go! First comes the fancy cardboard invitation in an envelope with erotic Chinese drawings; then there’s the event itself at the new Lower…

  • Madhouse in a Boathouse

    Madhouse in a Boathouse

    It’s a nice thought: eating Sunday brunch in Central Park’s boathouse, overlooking a peaceful lake, watching the yellow and red leaves fall from the soon-to-be-naked branches. Certainly, it’s not an original idea; certainly, lots of tourists will be there. But can’t it still be enjoyable? How crazy can it get?

  • Baked Red Kidney Beans with Chorizo

    Baked Red Kidney Beans with Chorizo

    Is cheating on a recipe like cheating on a test? I wondered that as I made the “Red Kidney Beans Baked with Chorizo, Chilli, Garlic, and Olive Oil” from Simon Hopkinson’s sequel to “Roast Chicken & Other Stories,” “Second Helpings of Roast Chicken.” Simon, or Mr. Hopkinson (that feels more appropriate), calls for dried kidney…

  • Almond Cake in a Food Processor

    Almond Cake in a Food Processor

    You know the author photos you see on the back flap of cookbooks? Imagine if one of them started talking to you. That’s how I felt last week when I announced on Twitter that I was making Amanda Hesser’s almond cake (one of my all-time favorite desserts, recipe here) and Amanda Hesser herself, who’s a…

  • Esca

    Esca

    It’s hard to write about Esca because Esca doesn’t seem real. The first time I ate there, it was for Chapter 8 of my book, the chapter where I met Ruth Reichl for lunch. I was so nervous that day, so focused on the person I was about to meet, that the restaurant didn’t feel…

  • Quesadilla at The Brooklyn Flea

    Quesadilla at The Brooklyn Flea

    Hyperbole is the crutch of the lazy food writer. Take the post below this:

  • The Best Broccoli of Your Life

    The Best Broccoli of Your Life

    You know you’ve done something right with broccoli when the person you made it for describes it to someone else the next day as “better than biting into a steak.” Those were Craig’s words and they were a marked change from the first words he uttered about the broccoli, before he bit in: “You made…