Category

Soups

  • Pasta e Fagioli

    Pasta e Fagioli

    The cookbook that I wrote almost fifteen years ago (!), Secrets of the Best Chefs, has a lentil soup in it so good, Smitten Kitchen wrote about it. That soup, which was taught to me by the late Gina DePalma, will live on in perpetuity as one of the great combinations of sausage, lentils, and…

  • Spicy Fennel and Squash Soup with Candied Pepitas and Balsamic Pears

    Spicy Fennel and Squash Soup with Candied Pepitas and Balsamic Pears

    Garnishes are a game-changer when it comes to a pureed soup. What could pass easily as baby food, becomes something much more substantial and more interesting to eat when you add lots of little bobs and bits. I’ve noticed, when I’ve gone out to fancier meals, that pureed soups are almost always presented as a…

  • French Cabbage and Onion Soup

    French Cabbage and Onion Soup

    There are certain ingredients that food people adore that make normal people cringe. Take cabbage, for example. Last week, I told Craig I was going to cook a cabbage for dinner and it was as if I’d said, “Instead of going out for cocktails, let’s get our flu shots!”

  • Borlotti Bean Soup with Swiss Chard

    Borlotti Bean Soup with Swiss Chard

    The pandemic really changed people’s relationship to beans. In the time before we were all locked into our abodes, bored out of our minds, beans had a negative connotation; as in “that’s not worth a hill of beans” or “you’re full of beans.” Now being full of beans is a good thing. People look at…

  • Red Lentil Soup with Harissa and Lime

    Red Lentil Soup with Harissa and Lime

    Cooking seasonally doesn’t just mean winter, spring, summer, fall. It also means looking out your window and getting inspired. If you live in L.A. and you’ve been looking out the window lately, you may have noticed a little rain falling from the sky. Actually, a lot of rain. God knows, L.A. needs it, and I…

  • There Will Be Borscht

    There Will Be Borscht

    Recently I interviewed Dorie Greenspan on my Instagram Live and she talked about how she’s been cooking so much lately from cookbooks. I confessed that I’d fallen into a rut where I just keep making the same things over and over again: roast chicken with root vegetables, pasta, pork chops, pasta, soup, pasta. Did I…

  • Roasted Honeynut Squash Soup with Apples, Ginger, and Yellow Miso

    Roasted Honeynut Squash Soup with Apples, Ginger, and Yellow Miso

    One of the biggest clichés in food writing is the idea of cooking with love. It’s abstract, vague, overly sentimental. And yet, there’s something about it that makes sense to me, especially when I’m making soup. You can cook with a lot of love when you’re making soup. You can take the time to strain…

  • White Bean Soup with Parmesan and Kale

    White Bean Soup with Parmesan and Kale

    We’ve escaped to Santa Barbara for a week with our friends Ryan and Jonathan, forming a mini quarantine community as Covid cases blow up all over the country. It’s making me think a lot about the idea of a “chosen family,” since my biological family is 3,000 miles away in Florida, at the epicenter of…

  • Pappa al Pomodoro (Or: How To Eat Tomato Sauce and Bread For Dinner)

    Pappa al Pomodoro (Or: How To Eat Tomato Sauce and Bread For Dinner)

    I’ve been really into tomatoes this summer. Every Sunday I’ve been going to the Atwater Village Farmer’s Market, buying some juicy heirlooms, and using them in sandwiches, salads, tomato baths, you get the idea. You might think that now that August is over, tomato season is on the way out… but you’d be wrong! Most…

  • Chickened Vegetable Soup

    Chickened Vegetable Soup

    Let us all acknowledge the truth about roast chicken: it’s not about the chicken, it’s about the vegetables. That truth dawned on me long ago when I used to line a roasting pan with red potatoes sliced in half, all surrounding a well-seasoned chicken; the rendered chicken fat would coat the potatoes, they’d get all…