Category

Essays

  • My Dinner with Frank Bruni

    The dinner was set for Monday, October 22nd, and the e-mail came on Thursday, October 18th. It said: “We’re going to check out ___… at 8:30 p.m., reservation for four under surname ___.” (E-mail’s been censored for obvious reasons.) Then, on the 21st, another e-mail came with the subject: “Monday night location and slight time…

  • My Critical Condition

      In the introduction to John Lahr’s 1996 book “Light Fantastic: Adventures in Theatre” he writes, “Criticism, of course, is a kind of performance, but with this difference: the artist puts his life on the line, the critic only his words. This is not to minimize the significance of the activity, but to place criticism…

  • Bones

    Bones

    They say charity begins at home. They also say that “no good deed goes unpunished.” But I have a new aphorism that I hope some day catches on: “Donating your clothes to the Salvation Army leads to goat curry.” After a week of cleaning out the closet, making room for Craig, we had four giant…

  • How I Almost Appeared on Top Chef

    At this point, you’re probably well aware that last night’s episode of Top Chef Miami featured Andrea Strong as the top-secret food blogger “plant” in the highly dramatic restaurant episode. What you probably don’t know is that I too auditioned to be there at that table with Andrea. I was called in last winter to…

  • “Ratatouille” & Jewish Assimilation (an essay, with spoilers)

    “Ratatouille” & Jewish Assimilation (an essay, with spoilers)

    The key moment in “Ratatouille” is not the creation of the title dish, a layered circle of sliced zucchini, eggplant, and tomato perfectly rendered by Pixar’s animators and lovingly sauced by Remy, the film’s protagonist. It’s not the climactic scene of judgment by the film’s primary antagonist, the food critic Anton Ego, voiced by a…

  • Diner Food

    Diner Food

    Craig returns from the bathroom and I’m lost in thought. “What are you thinking about?” he asks, slathering mayo on to his turkey club. “Diners,” I respond. We are at the West Side Diner on 9th Ave. and we’ve just seen a three hour play about British orphans. “What about them?” I open one of…

  • My Interview With Nigel Slater

    Ladies and gentleman, I present to you my first ever professional food writing piece—a Salon.com interview with Nigel Slater. He was a pleasure to talk to, hope you enjoy reading it.

  • Fat

    I was thinking today about the word “fat.” It’s easy to forget, once you’ve entered the world of food, how the rest of the world hears that three-letter word, a word that promises such ecstasy but which suffers such a severe stigma. Watching my usual Sunday helping of Tivoed cooking shows–Lydia’s Family Table, Barefoot Contessa,…

  • Writing School

    Today I graduate writing school and I officially become a writer. The words you’re reading now are not sanctioned yet–give it a few hours and suddenly you’ll realize how un-degreed these sentences were. I kid, of course, because graduating writing school is not like graduating medical school or (ahem) law school–you can be a practicing…

  • What I Can Tell You About The Taping I Attended of “Iron Chef America” Without Having To Pay The Food Network $1,000,000

    What I Can Tell You About The Taping I Attended of “Iron Chef America” Without Having To Pay The Food Network $1,000,000

    The Food Network really doesn’t want me to tell you what I witnessed on Monday, January 23rd. Upon arriving at The Food Network studios in The Chelsea Market, they had my companions and I sign a piece of paper that made us swear we wouldn’t reveal any secrets from the episode we were about to…