Category

Essays

  • Fear of Mayo

    Fear of Mayo

    Jimmy Fallon likens it to pus. Last night at dinner, the idea of it made Craig’s cousin Katie scrunch up her face in disgust. And me? I used to have nightmares about this female camp counsellor with a hairy lip who ate an egg salad sandwich with dabs of mayo stuck all along the perimeter…

  • 10 Signs You’re in a Good Restaurant

    10 Signs You’re in a Good Restaurant

    I thought this was an original idea for a post but, just to be sure, I Googled the title. Turns out there are several posts with the same name. That almost caused me to click “delete” but then I thought, “Well, if I don’t read any of those posts and write my own take on…

  • Room Service

    Room Service

    The idea of room service held little appeal for me until I was on a book tour for longer than expected (stranded in Austin for a bit by the hurricane) and suddenly I couldn’t fathom another dinner out with human beings. I enjoy human beings…but on a book tour you meet so many of them…

  • Down With Communal Tables!

    Down With Communal Tables!

    [Image via I’m Only Here For The Food] At long last, after weeks of waiting, we’re going to that great restaurant everyone’s been talking up. We’ve pinched pennies, we’ve cleared calendars, we’ve read the reviews online and the menu and strategized endlessly about how and what we’ll order. Only: this place doesn’t take reservations, so…

  • One Year in L.A. (A Reflection)

    One Year in L.A. (A Reflection)

    I came to L.A. with the most open of open minds. As New Yorkers twisted up their faces at the news (“L.A.? You’re moving to L.A.?”) I held my head high with secret knowledge. My secret knowledge was mostly food-based. I knew about Jonathan Gold, one of our nation’s greatest food writers, who, in writing…

  • Dinner at Rick and Chuck’s (A Memory)

    Dinner at Rick and Chuck’s (A Memory)

    The letter was in an envelope in my pocket, folded in half. Even though I knew this would produce a crease, I figured a crease was better than walking into my professor’s house holding a mysterious envelope, especially with three other classmates arriving with me. “What’s that letter?” they would probably ask and what would…

  • The Recipes We Leave Behind

    The Recipes We Leave Behind

    Marion Cunningham’s death is a sad occasion, one that’s fostered many loving tributes from distinguished food writers like Kim Severson and Michael Bauer. Many of these tributes make mention of her recipes, in particular her raised waffles (which I’ve made before, see picture above) and her baking powder biscuits (which I haven’t but plan to…

  • Stop It With The Small Plates! (Except Where They Work)

    Stop It With The Small Plates! (Except Where They Work)

    Dear Restaurant Owners, The jig is up! Do you think I’m a chump? Do you think I don’t see through you and your small plate menus? You’re trying to get me to spend more money than I want to! Instead of offering up an individual-sized appetizer for $12 to $15 and an entree in the…

  • Waiting For The Dough To Rise (A Passover Meditation)

    Waiting For The Dough To Rise (A Passover Meditation)

    On Passover Saturday, I Tweeted that I was making Everything Bagel Bombs from the Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook and moments later I received this text from my mom: “Do you not know bagels are taboo on Passover or are you just stirring the pot? Most bagel stores in New York are closed.” I called my…

  • Let’s Bring Back The “Thank You” Note

    Let’s Bring Back The “Thank You” Note

    The worst moment of my 13 year-old life was when my mom pointed to a stack of cardboard cards featuring my name written in glitter and told me that I had to write “thank you” notes for all of my Bar Mitzvah gifts. This was weeks after having been hospitalized for dehydration (my Bar Mitzvah…