Writing about food since 2004.
Category
Adam Roberts
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Roasted Fennel with Sardines and Toasted Garlic Breadcrumbs
Moses saw a burning bush and I saw a roasted fennel. Yes, a vision came to me last night when I came home from Union Market with the ingredients to make Spaghetti con Le Sarde, a Southern Italian pasta dish with sardines, fennel, fennel seeds, raisins soaked in wine, and toasted breadcrumbs. Only: when I…
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Blueberry Streusel Sour Cream Coffee Cake
We hosted a brunch here last weekend. The original plan was just to offer bagels and cream cheese (four different kinds!) and smoked salmon with red onions and sliced tomatoes and capers and coffee made to order. That seemed like enough but then I asked myself,”What else would you want there if this were at…
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Herby Panko-Crusted Rack of Lamb
My father-in-law Steve (the crab cake king) loves rack of lamb so much, I’m pretty sure he’d eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner if he could. And seeing as my in-laws are staying with us, when I offered to cook them dinner on Sunday, I knew that if I asked “any special requests?” there…
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Quick Meatballs Over Slow-Cooked Polenta
Meatballs are not a go-to dinner for me. Sometimes I crave them, but then I think about all of the work: the tearing of the bread (yes, good meatballs have bread soaked in milk), the soaking of the bread in milk (I just said that), the grating of the Parmesan, and — worst of all…
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Where to Eat in Copenhagen
We come to this place for magic. No, not AMC movie theaters, I’m talking about Copenhagen. Ever since Noma opened its doors in 2003, Copenhagen has become the preeminent culinary destination for food-savvy travelers, even those lucky enough not to get a reservation (I kid). The city is so rich with culinary destinations, you could…
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Escape From Noma
This is not the post that I thought I was going to write about Noma, the massively influential Copenhagen restaurant that’s been declared “The Best Restaurant in the World” five different times. In fact, I didn’t even think I’d ever get to eat at Noma, especially when they recently announced that they’re closing the restaurant…
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Inga’s Bar, Gertrude’s, and Foul Witch
Carrie Bradsaw used her oven to store sweaters and took every dinner as an opportunity to put on a slinky new dress, slide into her Jimmy Choos, and step out into the glamorous New York City restaurant scene. And though I actually use my oven for cooking and mostly wear Vans, sometimes the pull of…
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Lentils with Pancetta, Anchovies, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Kale
When I wrote my cookbook Secrets of the Best Chefs over a decade ago, I stood in the kitchen of Beast, Chef Naomi Pomeroy’s then-flagship restaurant in Portland, trying to keep up as she made a giant batch of lentils. Every time I looked away, it seemed like she was adding a new ingredient: was…
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Banana Upside-Down Cake
Most cakes tell you what they’re going to look like before you put them in the oven. If you make a flourless chocolate cake, it’s going to be the same color going in as it is coming out. Same for an almond cake, a coconut cake (pre-icing), a hummingbird cake, etc. Upside-down cakes are different.…
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A Birthday Dinner at Claud
We all have embarrassing things that we do in our lives where, if there were a documentary crew following us around, we’d ask them to leave the room while we engaged in our secret behavior. Such would be the case had anyone been watching me plan my birthday dinner this week in New York. I…
